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- By Clare McGillivray
Fancy a holiday that’s more about relaxing and connecting than shopping and rushing about?
Then Great Barrier Island will do the trick. A recent six-day sojourn refilled the batteries and reminded us of the unspoiled beauty of New Zealand’s sixth-largest island.
Staying at Glenfern Sanctuary on Port Fitzroy was a real find. Set on the water’s edge, Glenfern covers 83 hectares within the 240-hectare, predator-fenced Kotuku Peninsula on the north-west coast of Aotea Great Barrier Island.
A regional park run by a charitable trust, Glenfern is free for all to visit, but to fully appreciate its beauty, an overnight stay at either the historic Fitzroy House or Glenfern Cottage is a must.
You can reach Great Barrier by a scenic 30-minute flight from Auckland or the North Shore, or by the 4.5-hour car ferry from Auckland CBD.
A car is essential for exploring the island, as there’s no public transport. There are plenty of hire options, or you can bring your own vehicle on the ferry.
The east coast rewards the drive with some of the island’s most amazing beaches – wide, wild, and often almost empty.
Our days were spent hiking the many tracks around the island, especially those near Port Fitzroy.
Each was incredibly scenic and different, from groves of nikau palms to towering kauri and puriri, a haven for kererū. Starting from our cottage, the 2km Glenfern Loop Track was the first on the list.
It winds beside a clear Aotea stream and through regenerating native bush, with a side track leading to Sunset Rock, where sweeping vistas take in Hauturu (Little Barrier), the Hen and Chickens, and the mainland.
Alive with kākā, pāteke, black petrel, and even the rare chevron skink, the track offers a serene and wildlife-rich walk through conservation-restored forest.
Fishing and kayaking off the sanctuary’s private jetty added to the fun – and the menu. Snapper, kahawai, and porae found their way into the cottage’s fully equipped kitchen, itself a slice of history, barged into Glenfern from the Whangaparapara sawmill in 1914.
Our trip ended on a real high. Cruising back to Auckland from Port Fitzroy in perfect weather, we were treated to glassy seas, stunning views of rocky islets guarding the harbour, and sightings of dolphins and whales, the perfect finale to an unforgettable holiday.
